Reminder: ABD Verification Required by 1 June 2017

Posted on Leave a commentPosted in Adults & Youths, Facility Announcement, Programmes

 

Hi Climbers.

Gentle reminder that from 1 June 2017 all lead climbers will be required to use ABD and to also be verified according to the new standards. Top Rope climbers wishing to use their own belay devices (tubular or ABD) will also need to be verified according to the new standards

*This change does not affect climbers who are belaying using the method shown in our safety briefing*

New verification timings are released. Sign up at https://cmbasia.wufoo.eu/forms/k1mx57j206raiyg/

Verification matrices available at: http://climbcentral.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Verification-Matrix-Top-Rope.pdf and http://climbcentral.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Verification-Matrix-Lead.pdf

Looking to get ready for verification or curious to find out what this is about? Sign up for a class at https://cmbasia.wufoo.eu/forms/kz26xv80m9e5n5/

June 2017 School Holidays!

Posted on Posted in Rock Climbing

 

The school holidays is back!

Register for our school holiday programmes at:

Intro to Climbing for Kids: https://cmbasia.wufoo.eu/forms/introduction-for-kids/

ABC Camp: https://cmbasia.wufoo.eu/forms/the-awesome-beta-climbing-camp-abc-camp/

Beta Kids (Starter): https://cmbasia.wufoo.eu/forms/beta-kids-club-starter-sessions/

Intro to Climbing for Families: https://cmbasia.wufoo.eu/forms/intro-for-adults-families/

Do register and make payment online at least 3 days before the class date! Slots are only reserved when payment has been made. Alternatively, do approach our counter at Climb Central to get registered and make payment!

Lead Practice Classes and Lead Verification Dates for May 2017

Posted on Posted in Adults & Youths, Facility Announcement, Programmes

Hi Climbers

Additional Lead Practice classes now open on 3 May (Wed, 7-10pm) and 13 May (Sat, 9am-12noon).

Verification time slots for May are also open.

  • Sign up at https://cmbasia.wufoo.eu/forms/k1mx57j206raiyg/
  • Lead Verification Matrix: http://climbcentral.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Verification-Matrix-Lead.pdf
  • Top Rope Verification Matrix: http://climbcentral.sg/wp-content/uploads/2017/02/Verification-Matrix-Top-Rope.pdf

Gentle reminder that by 1 June 2017:

  • ABD + new Lead Verification Tag required for use of the Lead Wall.
  • Min. of new Belay Verification Tag required for top rope belaying using method where belay device is attached to harness (No change for top rope belay using the method shown during our safety briefing)

Partial Gym Closure Notice for NPSSCC 2017!

Posted on Posted in Facility Announcement, Family & Kids, Rock Climbing

Dear Climbers,

Climb Central is playing host to the National Primary School Sports Climbing Championship (a.k.a. NPSSCC) for the third year running and certain climbing areas will be affected both on the event days as well as before / after due to route setting that needs to be done.

Opening hours are not affected but do refer to the dates and times below before heading down to know how this might affect your climbing session or just head on down anyway to cheer the young ones on as they surprise you with what they can do.

We apologise for any inconvenience caused. Thanks again for your kind support.

Cheers,

Climb Central

 

Actual Event Day:

21 March, Tuesday
Top Rope & Boulder Qualifiers (Boys)

22 March, Wednesday
Top Rope & Boulder Qualifiers (Girls)

23 March, Thursday
Speed Qualifiers & Finals

28 March, Tuesday
Top Rope & Boulder Finals

 

Areas Affected:

19 March, Sunday
Partial top rope area – 6pm to 9pm

20 March, Monday
Partial top rope area – 11am to 11pm
Full boulder – 11am to 6pm
Half boulder – 6pm to 11pm

21 March, Tuesday
Partial top rope area – 11am to 11pm
Full boulder – 11am to 6pm
Half boulder – 6pm to 11pm

22 March, Wednesday
Partial top rope area – 11am to 6pm
Selected tope rope lanes – 8pm to 11pm
Full boulder – 11am to 6pm

23 March, Thursday
Partial top rope area – 11am to 6pm
Selected tope rope lanes – 8pm to 11pm

26 March, Sunday
Partial top rope – 6pm to 9pm

27 March, Monday
Partial top rope area – 11am to 11pm
Full boulder – 11am to 6pm
Half boulder – 6pm to 11pm

28 March, Tuesday
Partial top rope area – 11am to 6pm
Full boulder – 11am to 6pm

Verification FAQs

Posted on Posted in Facility Announcement, Rock Climbing

Dear Climbers

Thanks for your questions and feedback about the new Verification Process. We have consolidated the common concerns in this FAQ and hope it will assist:

1. I already have a SNCS Level 1 / 2 certification, do I still need to be verified?

The verification is intended as an additional level of facility checks to ensure climber proficiency before usage of the Top Rope or Lead walls.

Given the recent increase in climbers, we feel the need for this additional level of checks for the facility to better manage the risks arising from climber & belayer inexperience and/or complacency.

CC believes that the overarching theme for the recent changes is raising of safety standards. Aside from the introduction of assisted braking devices (ABDs) and checking that customers know how to use an ABD, we also hope to check that all climbers /belayers are generally proficient in what they are doing.

Climbers are still encouraged to take top rope or lead courses (e.g. the SNCS level 1 / 2 classes) and attend ABD workshops to help you attain the skills that are necessary to pass the verification test. The pre-requisite for taking the test is still attendance at a course and /or years of previous experience.

2. Where will the new verification tag be recognised?

The new verification tag will be recognised at Climb Central, Climb Asia and Onsight. This is not a certification card and should you visit other climbing facilities outside of the above gyms (locally / overseas), you may still need to demonstrate proof of competency in climbing and belaying according to their own facility standards.

3. Is the old lead tag still valid?

CC will continue to recognise the old lead tag until 31st May 2017.

A new lead tag will be issued upon passing the verification. From 1st June 2017, Climb Central will require climbers to display the new lead tag when using the lead wall or top rope walls (if you wish to use belay device attached to harness). For requirements of other facilities, please refer to them directly.

4. Who are people who are included in ‘’1st time free (till 31 May 2017) if you have previously passed a lead verification test at CC’’

The fee waiver is only for people who have paid $10 to take a lead verification assessment at Climb Central. It does not include people who have exchanged their Level 2 cards for a lead tag at CC.

5. What happens if I can’t make it for any of CC’s verification slots by 1st June 2017?

We will be monitoring verification signup during the next few months and will open more slots if needed. In addition, we do intend to conduct verification on a regular basis even after 1st June for those who require it.

6. I still have questions that aren’t answered…

If you still have any other questions or queries about verification please email us at info@climbcentral.sg. We seek your understanding in advance that we may not be able to respond to every social media comment /question but will do our best to reply to individual emails, answer your questions over the counter and to consolidate/update these FAQs.

ABD Lead Workshop Recap

Posted on Posted in Adults & Youths, How to Climb, Programmes

In Feb 2017, we organized a series of ABD workshops to introduce different ABDs and talk about their advantages and disadvantages. Here’s a summary of what we shared.

Note: This workshop was tailored to lead climbers (because we’re focused on ABD lead verification), but some of the general principles may be useful knowledge for top rope climbers too!

What is an Assisted Braking Device?

Traditional belay devices use friction to assist you in managing the weight of your climber when you need to catch a fall. Assisted belay devices take this one step further and assist in holding a falling or hanging climber.

Classification of ABDs

Active ABDS

  • Assisted braking relies on pinching mechanisms within the device
  • Have moving parts within the device
  • Independent of the position of the brake hand
  • E.g. Petzl Grigri, Madrock Lifeguard, Camp Matik, Trango Cinch, Edelrid Eddy

Passive ABDs

  • Assisted braking effect is due to pinching of rope between the carabiner and the device
  • Triggered by a slight pull of the rope and is generally dependent on the type of carabiner used
  • Only works if brake rope in a specific direction (brake hand in brake position): This means that if you let go of your brake hand during a fall, the device may not brake
  • E.g Edelrid Megajul, Mammut Smart, ClimbTech Click-up

Why ABDs?

Advantages

  • Active ABDs might help to arrest fall even if belayer gets knocked unconscious
  • Minimizes incidents from climber letting go of rope due to rope burns or not being able to catch full force of fall

Disadvantages

  • More complex device to learn especially for feeding rope (lead climbing) and lowering
  • Risk of uncontrolled lowering if climber is not proficient in use of device
  • More costly than most friction based devices

How to use an ABD?

Basic Things to Note for Lead Belaying

  1. Setting Up the Device – Follow the diagrams on the device to guide you. Do a tug check by pulling fast on the climber end to check that it catches
  2. Feeding Rope – Feed consistently and let the hand on the climber end of the rope lead the way. Avoid fast movements as the ABDs might lock. And always always remember to keep one hand firmly on the brake position in braking position.
  3. Taking In – The usual 5-step belay is sufficient.
  4. Arresting a fall – Give a dynamic belay by moving in a controlled manner in the direction of the pull from the fall.
  5. Lowering – Varies from device to device. Please refer to manufacturer recommendation. Generally, always keep your master hand on the braking rope.

We’ve covered 3 devices during the workshop and participants got the chance to try lead belaying with all 3 devices. Here are the manufacturers’ videos for your ease of reference.

EDELRID Mega Jul (Available for rental at CC)

MAD ROCK Lifeguard

CLIMBING TECHNOLOGY Click Up

Choosing a device

Some factors to consider…

  • Where will you be using the device? Indoor use only (consider the Jul2) versus an option that will work outdoors too (consider the Mega Jul which allows for abseiling)
  • How much are you willing to spend? Cheaper option (consider the Mammut Smart) versus more expensive (consider Petzl Grigri). Remember that expensive doesn’t mean better though.
  • Ease of Feeding / Ease of Lowering / Handling Errors. This may be a little bit more subjective so it’s best to try out the device for yourself before committing.

Check out this useful comparison table for some of the more common devices: http://www.alpenverein.de/chameleon/public/33836d33-9b6d-2389-4802-7115db2dfb12/assisted_braking_devices_chart_26375.pdf

Whatever device you choose, smooth handling is definitely something that comes with familiarity and practice. And of course, no device is a substitute for bad belaying!

Bonus for the Tech Junkies

Find out what’s new and upcoming in 2017: http://www.climbing.com/gear/review-our-top-new-belay-devices-for-2017/

Key Takeaways

  • ABD effect varies between devices. Each device is also affected by factors such as rope diameter and stiffness.
  • When in doubt, always refer to manufacturer’s specs or demonstration videos
  • The device is only as good as the person using it. Keep practising, keep learning and don’t get complacent!

References:

  • http://www.alpenverein.de/chameleon/public/450e9f1b-9c38-a0e9-725d-c88dd8c4cdb1/Belay_Device_Recommendation_26255.pdf
  • http://www.climbing.com/gear/catch-this-a-close-look-at-assisted-braking-belay-devices/
  • http://www.alpenverein.de/chameleon/public/d2a81975-4acc-1e56-48b9-53b166da2233/assisted-braking-belay-devices-advantages-disadvantages-differences_26374.pdf

More about Verification

Posted on Posted in Facility Announcement

Dear Climbers,

Thanks for your patience. Here’s sharing more about the upcoming verification process at Climb Central:

Verification Objectives

Introduce an additional layer of facility checks to reduce risks arising from climber & belayer inexperience and complacency.

Verification Standards

CC will be adopting the Climbing Wall Association standards and staff conducting verification will be trained according to the certification standards for climbing wall instructors. More information on CWA Standards can be found at the following link:https://climbingwallindustry.site-ym.com/?page=Standards

Verification Requirement

By 1 June 2017, CC will require all lead climbers & top rope climbers (using belay device attached to their harness) to be verified according to the new standards. Verification will need to be done on an assisted braking device (ABD) and you are free to choose the ABD you are most comfortable with.

Test Matrices Lead Climb & Belay

Link: Verification Matrix – Lead

Top Rope Belay

Link: Verification Matrix – Top Rope

Test Pre-requisites
  • Age 13 and up

AND

  • Attended prior course /training; or
  • Has at least 3 years lead climbing & belaying experience
  • Age 13 and up

AND

  • Attended prior course /training; or
  • Has at least 1 year climbing & belaying experience
Card entitlement Display card to use Lead Walls & TR walls (using belay device attached to  harness) Display card to use TR walls (using belay device attached to harness)
Re-test For failures /revocation:

Next test can only be taken 1 month after last test; or upon proof of attendance at a course.

 

 ABD Lead Verification Signup

Who? Orange /White & Monthly Pass holders All
When? March 2017

·         Tue /Thu, 7-10.30pm,

·         Fri before 5pm

·         Sat, 5-8.30pm

April & May 2017

·         Tue /Thu, 7-10.30pm,

·         Fri before 5pm

·         Sat, 5-8.30pm

How to sign up Pre-booking required. Email link will be sent to you by 28 Feb 2017. Sign up in pairs! Pre-booking required. Link will be available on Facebook from 15 March 2017. Sign up in pairs!
How much?

 

1st time free (till 31 March 2017) $$10 verification fee per pax for each verification.

1st time free (till 31 May 2017) if you have previously passed a lead verification test at CC.

What should I expect during verification? Verification should last about 20-30 mins/pair. Climbers should check-in and meet at the grass patch 10 mins before your timeslot. Bring your own equipment. If required, free Mega Jul & rope rental will be available during the test.

*Do note that during these 3 months, CC will not be able to accommodate peak hour verification outside of the fixed timeslots. As there are limited timeslots available, we also seek your cooperation to not change your timeslot after signing up.

Not sure about how to use an ABD or if your belaying skills are up to scratch?

We’re planning a mix of intro and practice sessions to provide refreshers and climbing /belaying tips. Stay tuned for our classes launch in April!

 

Update 6 March 2017:

Verification FAQs